Recognising that each boasts its own industry under the greater fashion blanket, setting up a label with leather, denim and tailoring – collectively – at its core is quite something. For context take Savile Row, an entire street internationally renowned for its work in the latter arena, or the saturated denim market that welcomes a new member seemingly every week.
Then embrace the fact that none of this curbed the arrival of 2NDDAY in 2011.
A self appointed ‘female denim-leather-tailoring based atelier with a raw elegance’, the Danish label is an offshoot of Keld Mikkelsen’s mainline Day Birger et Mikkelsen brand – founded in 1997 – but stresses Creative Director Åsa Göransson, “(we) operate as a standalone, with our own team, which enables us to have a distinct handprint and identity; the collections are not affected in any way.”
“Tailoring and great outerwear are my absolute favourites,” she continues, commenting on the aforementioned heavyweight fields, “collaborating with skilled pattern makers and superb manufacturers is the greatest part of collection making for me.”
Of the label’s denim output she notes, “(it’s) all about style which means we can produce pieces far removed from classic ‘American vintage’. We are offering a designer denim collection that sits with the rest of the pieces – it’s a modern approach to jeans.” It would seem then, that the successful merging of such wardrobe mainstays hasn’t been an issue.
With 15 years experience in the industry, much of it spent working alongside her partner Fredrik Blank as a consultant (the two also had their own line, Blank Atelier), Åsa (and Fredrik)’s real passion is in restructuring, branding and strengthening collections: “It was through out reputation for creating a strong brand image that we were introduced to 2NDDAY.”
A four-year stint as the Head of Womenswear at Tiger of Sweden – Blank headed Menswear – led to Blank Atelier, which they worked on together for half a decade before taking on 2NDDAY. The result of each experience, the designer believes, has led to the strength of the tailoring on offer at what is still a brand enjoying its youth. “That would take years to develop ordinarily,” she says.
For it latest AW15 collection, 2NDDAY presents a line-up heavy in bright cerise, white and black. Titled ‘Heroine featuring Art Concrete’, looks range from all white get ups of wool and cotton to black leather T-shirts partnered with grand culottes and block colour bolds.
“It’s inspired by heroines including Amelia Earhart, the first female aviator to fly solo and Valentina Tereshkova, the first female to fly to space,” explains Göransson. “Art is always a huge inspiration for our collections and this season we referenced graphics and colours used by Brazilian Concrete artists Lygia Clark and Judy Lapland; this unexpected combination is a key component for the 2NDDAY brand.”
The references are easy to spot in pieces like the Avril jacket, a leather pocket fronted bomber or the Carpe dress, a striking number that features triangles of yellow, red and blue.
Elsewhere Åsa claims sport, as well as art, is a predominant influence on the label’s aesthetic uniform. “We love to play with unexpected clashes and combinations. Colour is also a big part of our DNA, a strong colour palette defines the collections.”
Broadly spoken about in the same breath under the non-specific ‘Scandinavian ’ tagline, Swedish and Danish style couldn’t be more conflicting argues the Swedish designer when pushed. “For me they are very different, Danish style is softer and has a luxury bohemian feel whereas Swedish style is more conceptual and strict and doesn’t dazzle in the same way as Danish style typically does.”
Rejecting the stark appeal of its neighbour, 2NDDAY’s make-up, leathers included, confirms the contrast when compared to the likes of Ann-Sofie Back, Cheap Monday or Acne, similarly outlining the problem with the lazy Scandi tag. Herein, she has a point.
Beginning ‘To create is to destroy’ on account, presumably, of the brand’s ongoing commitment to evolving, 2nd DAY’s mantra offers plenty of room to create, as Gorranson asserts, “It gives us a lot to play with!” And explore she does so, denim, leather and tailoring all in.
Words: Zoe Whitfield