In the short eighteen months since taking the helm as artistic director of menswear, Kim Jones has turned the House of Dior on its head. In less than two years we have seen a series of artist collaborations, a reimagining of house codes in tailoring, and been taken on a worldwide tour of historical fashion shows. Jones has certainly made his mark at the Parisian fashion house, and it has been nothing short of spectacular.
The latest feat by the innovative designer was the showing of his fall 2020 Dior menswear collection in Miami last night. Opportunely debuting the day before the Art Basel fair opened to the ultra rich and cultured in the same location, Jones was able to share the stage with the very artists who inspired him.
This collection was all logos, logos, logos. The venue was heavily decorated in hand-painted graffiti-esque ‘Dior’ stamps from wall to ceiling, painted by one of the forerunners of street-wear, Mr Shawn Stussy. Jones is a self confessed-lifelong fan of the pioneering, counter-cultural designer, and Stussy's influence in the beachier elements of the collection were clear. Ponchos, bucket hats, berets, short sleeved shirts and floral pieces were intermingled with tailored suiting and capes, with jewellery designed by Yoon Ahn of Ambush.
The first look on the runway featured a single-earring wearing model layered in house branding. His blue sweatshirt drenched in logos of varying fonts and colours as he carried a large, classically monogrammed bag underarm. This look set the tone for the rest of the collection, a marrying of the old and the new, the classicism of the Parisian brand and the younger, street-savvy house codes implemented by their artistic director.
This look also saw the debut of the highly anticipated (as of 24 hours before), Dior-Jordan Brand collaborative Air Jordan 1s. Jones has a history of making waves online; remember his Supreme collaboration at Louis Vuitton? The man knows how to cult-collab.
Dior menswear fall 2020 sees another successful cultural conversation from Jones; a high-low mix of Parisian and American savoire faire igniting Jones's global curiosities. And all that's left to do is eagerly await the Dior winter 2020 show in January.
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